Made in India

One of the sadder phrases you see on goods here is "Export Quality," as though having a sturdy, well-crafted product is something not meant for India. If you want high-quality goods like we get in the states, you generally end up paying as much or more than in the US.

Before I came back to India, I thought getting clothes here would be relatively easy--I got a great pair of pants here last time. In other posts, I've discussed how I was too big and the wrong complexion for ready-made clothes. Also, Western clothes tend to be of poor quality and/or expensive (for example I bought a great pair of jeans for $30 US).


Please Shoot Me.

Although I found a simple dress a few days before Christmas, I hesitated to buy it because it had a bad zipper, and when I went back Christmas night, it had sold. I shopped around for a while for dresses and shoes and found nothing except more bad zippers. My friend H agreed to take me shopping the next day since I didn't have much time.

I spent about six hours riding and walking around Bangalore, trying on poorly made, over-priced, wrongly-proportioned garments, one of which I got stuck in and had to have help escaping. In another shop, an alarmed shop keeper blurted "No--it is too small!" when H handed a cute dress to me. Even 15 pounds lighter, I'm still too big for Bangalore.

NONE of the ready-made Western dresses looked great, and all of them were $100-$1000 USD, most I wouldn't pay $30 for at Ross. Shoes were a complete loss. I'm
waiting until I get to China, rather than spending $30-50 USD on ill-fitting, REALLY poorly made plastic crap in styles that are either terrible or ill-suited to the freezing weather in Beijing. I would have paid a couple hundred dollars for a pair of good closed-toe heels--shoes are something I try to buy infrequently and of high quality--but you can't find them here.

Why to buy ready-made clothes

I ended hiring a tailor to make a dress. It seems like having clothes custom-made should be kind of fun and end up fitting perfectly, in addition to being less expensive than ready-made items. Unfortunately, the tailor doesn't come to you, you have to know what you want, and you have to make a lot of trips. I had to make three trips to the tailor, plus a side trip to get the fabric.

H made the process as easy as she could--she knew the tailors and where they were, asked the right questions, etc. Her tailor wasn't available, so we went to Commercial Street to try two others. The nicer, more expensive tailor was too booked for New Year's, so we had to go to the second choice, a mother and daughter whom H doesn't like much (with good reason) but who had time before I left for China.

The first trip was while we were already on Commercial Street. I told her what I wanted, got specs for acceptable fabric type (plain silk only), get initial measurements taken, run out and buy fabric and bring it back, have detailed measurements taken, and then run out to get the liner fabric and bring it back because she didn't mention liners in the first place. All of that took about 90 minutes (plenty of fabric stores on Commercial Street, fortunately). The fabric cost about $15-20, and the stitching cost about $30. I spent another $10 on auto rides.

The daughter called me back Friday to have a fitting, where I had them raise the midriff band and take in the bodice a small amount. I tried to be friendly but efficient, pointing out that raising the band would deemphasize the width of my ribcage. She ignored me, had me get out of the dress, and I moved on. That second trip only took 20 minutes plus an hour's worth of to and fro. The mother called me the next day to say the dress was ready. I returned a third time to pick up the dress, which took TWO HOURS, not including the 90 minutes to get there and back.

"I am not an animal!"
Many of you may not realize that I have a large ribcage (that's not a euphemism). It happens to be less tapered than a normal ribcage. Though the tailor took measurements of my ribcage at many points, when I tried on the finished dress, I had to have someone else zip it and couldn't breath. I gave it back to the shop owner's mother, and she snapped at the tailor to retake my measurements and let the seams out. I sat down in the shop and worked for a while.



When the dress came back, I tried it on and it fit fine around the ribcage, but the fall in the back looked goofy. I sent the dress back for adjustment and sat down to work again. Durign this time, I overheard the shop owner's mother talk to her staff and to customers. She was sweet as honey to the customers (until the topic of money came up), and as rude and disdainful of her staff as she could be. At one point, she tossed an empty bag at a woman on the floor who was hand-sewing beads onto a top. The owner's mother could have set the bag aside, or even tossed it next to her, but she seemed to make a little extra effort to put the bag in the way of the woman doing the beading. I'm not sure if I've ever seen anybody so deliberately express the concept of someone's "station."

Third Time's The Charm?
The a different tailor came back with the dress. The fall in the fall in the back was fixed, but the zipper split when I put it on, and the sides looked asymmetric . The mother, looking annoyed at this point, sent the tailor into the nearest work room to fix the dress. He then carefully pressed the dress to fix the lop-sided appearance. The mother put the dress into a plastic bag to indicate that no more adjustments would be made. I took the dress out of the bag and tried it again.

The dress fit well enough that I took it, since I wanted to get home and/or to GK and the mother wasn't going to be able to do much more with it. The dress it mediocre--I probably should have used the brocade pattern for an accent band only. Tiny stitch holes are in the silk, and it still doesn't fit me that well. I'll have to have the seams let out when I get home, since it seems unlikely that I'll stay this thin. After seeing how they treated the staff, even if the dress had been perfect, I don't think I would go back. Instead, I'll go to H's preferred tailor and have shirts and pants made at reasonable prices, and I'll be able to give them shirts I already own as a pattern.

H made me matching brass jewelry that is much better than the dress. It'll only stay bright for a few weeks, but it's very cute and well-matched!

I did not shoot my eye out

I had a great Christmas! Two stockings, many pancakes, and a viewing of A Christmas Story. I got to make a Lego monkey and eat Pepperidge Farm cookies. We ate lovely pan-seared fish for dinner, and then we went to a rooftop party with a bonfire (uh--what fire code?). Also, I found out today that my visa went though, so I'll be off to Beijing next week.

Santa was here!

I had a Christmas stocking waiting for me this morning!

Merry Christmas from Bangalore!

Yes, Virginia, Santa Claus is in India, as are Christmas trees, ornaments, and Christmas carols. To be fair, the Christmas carol ringtones and reverse tones (when cars back up, they sometimes play music) happen year-round, but I've noticed an upsurge.

Many of the shops--be they owned by Hindus, Muslims, or Christians--have been decorated, and I have gotten Christmas texts and emails from people at both deployments. It's not quite the same as being at home, but I love that India celebrates almost ANY holiday. The Hanuka showing was a bit weak, but 6000 out of 1.1 billion is tough to play out, though I did have a belated celebration involving latkes on Eid, so that should count for something.

I'll probably work from home tomorrow, and I hear rumors of traditional Jewish Christmas paella being prepared.

If You Like "Can't Coach Fat, You'll LOVE..."

You may be surprised to learn that the internet has many, many blogs. In fact, my original idea was to not write any individual posts, but instead just reference another foreigner-in-India blog. My experiences are not actually that unique--just google "ex-pat blog India" to see the same stories told by different people.

Snakes on a Bike

I only read a couple blogs, on of which is Ride South by my insane friend Dave who is cycling to Tierra del Fuego. He has a fantastic Q&A with some elementary school kids. For the record, I have only seen one snake in India at the park. It was in the water, and I don't know if it was poisonous.

Punkassblog is the other blog I read from time to time. It's maintained by a friend of mine from college, but it has multiple contributors covering feminism, politics, and sometimes material sciences. Kyso, whom I've never met, would probably get a marriage proposal from me, were it not for the fact that she's a lady.


Now if only Bangalore had web access at coffee shops...

The internet is pretty much third after air and water in terms of importance for me. About 70% of my work is done online for or using Mifos.org, Skype or IM, our internal wiki pages, and email. The internets keep me somewhat connected to home, since I can read The New York Times or Seattle papers online. Interesting fact I learned this morning: you can pay to get an article put in an Indian newspaper (and frequently must pay).

I have a few people at home who check in on me and send me pictures of animals in ridiculous outfits. I'm able to talk on Skype (you can even call me at a Seattle number and it'll ring through to Skype and my cell phone), and a few people check up on me daily on IM (and send me drunken SMS's from time to time). If I could get some of Pete's Carmelitas (a.k.a. BEST FREAKING COOKIES EVER and undoubtedly how I will restore my missing pounds), it'd be just like home.

I Am Legend

So, now that my silly 16-hour days are over, all the NRI's, NIR's, and I's I know have gone to the US, Turkey, Goa, or other locales. I couldn't pull a last minute trip together for this week ("Sorry, madam. No flights anywhere for South East Asia"). However, I am the Queen of Opportunistic Travel, so I managed to tag along on a wedding trip to China in January instead of traveling this week. Cross your fingers that my visa goes through.

Lesson Learned: Say TOURIST

I tried to go to Hampi yesterday, since I had to cancel the trip last weekend because of work. Unfortunately, I put my Bangalore address on the ticket application. Then, when asked what kind of visa I had, I said business and pulled out my passport (idiot move). As it turns out, the Indian railways only reserve seats for foreigners who are tourists or students. Those of us with B on ours visas have to sit on the waiting list with the Indians or book tickets months in advance.

"But I'm a foreigner."
"It must be tourist visa."
"But what about this part here--that says tourist visa."
"NO. It says here 'B' for 'Business.' Tourist says T; Student says S. Yours says 'B.'"
"But I'm a foreigner?"
"No."
"But it says tourist visa?"
"No."

I was 53 on the waiting list. I did not get the overnight train. I probably will have to go back and lie to get a seat, as the trains are booked out for months (to quote a friend "You're screwed. You're never getting to Hampi by train.") Alternately, I'll just take an overnight bus or hire a driver instead.

Replace Me!

It looks like someone may be hired to replace me here in India (and possibly to overlap with me), so if you want to do what I do, you should email me. You might even get to work in other countries, too!

It's Schedule H for "Healthy"

I got more and more fatigued through the week, in part because I was working too much and not sleeping enough. The other problem was I hadn't yet shaken whatever I picked up the week prior (which I believed had cleared out). Any time I ate, my stomach hurt, and I couldn't finish my food. If I didn't eat, my stomach also hurt. It was getting more difficult to rally, to the point where I had to lie down all the time just because I felt tired and full. I couldn't even finish sushi Friday night.

I always wanted to be a doctor...

Before work on Saturday, I researched my symptoms online(result: likely a parasite, probably Giardia or some other protist), found the names of the drugs (Tinidazole or Metroindazole), and cross-referenced the information on several sites (CDC, etc.) to make sure the drugs were commonly used (they are) and not overly toxic (OK, but alcohol will cause projectile vomiting). I felt comfortable to skip the long trip to the doctor (generally with my symptoms, they treat you before they test, and I didn't have enough oomph to get myself across town). After dragging my lethargic self to GK and working a few hours, I stopped at a pharmacy on the way home, gave them the drug names, and for about 55 cents US had myself a cure.

The blister pack clearly says some rubbish about "Schedule H substance: Only issue with script from licensed physician," but since I had taken the trouble to write the names in my notebook to show the nice young men at the pharmacy, that's the same as several years of advanced study, right?

I spent a while at home rereading the dosage recommendations and looking up the warnings and advisories. In India, when you get a prescription, you get the blister pack and nothing else--no box, no instructions, no "take with food," and no dosage. Fortunately, all that information is available on the internet from the drugs companies and several doctorsl resource sites. I also skimmed the paper on the most effective treatment methods. Take aways: One-time, 2 gram dose, taken with food. Drink plenty of water and no alcohol. I emailed Sean that I was taking drugs, just in case I ended up having an allergic reaction or something, but the warnings, side-effects and advisories were along the same lines as other anti-cootie meds I have taken (tough on the GI tract, might cause hives, possible tingling or numbness in the extremities). Also, it's one of the drugs travel docs prescribe to bring as a just-in-case-something-nests-in-your-gut item.

Back in Business

It's tough to say if the medicine made me more tired or if I took it just in time. I spent most of my weekend lying in bed or on the couch working. However, Sunday I was able to consume food and not feel like my bloated belly was going to go all Ridley Scott. The only side effect seems to have been a metallic taste in my mouth all day (which persists today).

I can't imagine what it's like to get parasites all the time and not be able to get the drugs to fix them. Some things you can build up an immunity to, but for the most part, the taps here have critters in them that people who don't have fancy water filters like I do are going to get at least a few times a year, and most of them can't afford to go to the doctor and can't afford not to work. One of the things you see on some MFI loan applications is "water source" (mainly for data gathering purposes), and water education practices are critical in a lot of areas, along with oral re-hydration therapy techniques (boil water, mix in some sugar and salt--presto! You have Gatorade for a sick baby).

Now, back to work wit renewed vigor and fewer internal companions...

Why Don't You Blog More?

I try to edit the entires a bit before posting, and I usually write them when I am stuck without something to do (loss of internet, long car trip, stuck with a few wasted minutes waiting for someone to join a meeting). Lately, I've had good connectivity and not much to say.

To give a general update, I have been working quite a bit. When I'm not working, I get away from the laptop. Also, my life is pretty ho-hum, cricket chachas notwithstanding--I either work all day at home and break for a quick meal, power nap, or workout, or I get up, work, go to GK to work, come home, work/workout. Sometimes I work at different locations (fancy hotels, BabaJob), but for another couple weeks, I'll be putting in the time (and let's hope I'm doing some good). At at that point, I might go on a short trip somewhere else in Asia.

I do make a point of going out a few days or nights--LONG brunch on Sunday, cricket Saturday, drinks/dinner Saturday, Wednesday, and Thursday nights--and put the work around the activities.

I've been having sleep issues again as well as some illness, so I'm pretty tired. So, yeah--I am as boring in India as I am at home. :)

Foreigner Fame

Saturday: Cricket!
Clever LT got us hooked up with tickets to the India/Pakistan test match. Here's me with Pakistan's Chacha Cricket. If you were watching, you would have seen us on TV with him, too.



I'll try to post something else about what the actual match was like.

Hubris

After publishing that I hadn't had any stomach trauma, I consumed something disagreeable or just picked up a 24-hour virus. I seem to be fine (though tired)and didn't resort to antibiotics.

"Water, water everywhere..."

At most lunch places, you eat with your hands. To be hygienic and polite, one always washes ones hands, even if it's just one of the stand-up places. You will find a signs for HAND WASH and DRINKING WATER. HAND WASH is usually a small sink and a tub of liquid soap. DRINKING WATER is filtered and/or UV treated water. The faucet has cups next to it from which everyone can drink and then return the cup, but no one touches a mouth to the cup.

Strangely, spoons tend to get wiped and placed into a bin of water when plates are cleared. You then draw the same spoons out of the water (my fantasy is that they are washed and then put in the water to keep flies off).

[Jan '08: Turns out my hopes are true! they are washed properly and then stuck in the water, probably for that very reason.]

I drink filtered water instead of bottled water at restaurants and home. Almost everywhere filters tap water before serving, so the risk is pretty low. After a time, you get a sense of where you should and should not drink water. Also because I am not traveling (and can go be sick and miserable at home), I have abandoned "peel it, boil it, or forget it," though most Indian veggies are peeled AND boiled. I am more conservative outside of Bangalore, though.

Cooties
To date, I've had no major gastrointestinal trauma, other than eating too much rich food or getting dehydrated. Malaria medication (no longer taken), Western food and red wine are the most likely things to give me stomach aches.

What gets you are coughs, sore throats and sniffles. Everywhere people are coughing and hacking from disease or pollution. `And, when you are poor and work as a cook, you don't get sick days, so people are likely sick and working in kitchens. These days I feel fine but have a persistent pollution cough. Our cleaning lady seems to always be coughing and sniffling, and I think I have caught her cold at least once. Luckily, no severe fevers or anything worse than mild fatigue so far, though I'm pretty sure this post about guarantees I end up with dengue or something.

Bless My Taxes

Many people assume cities in India are dirty, confusing places with dogs and cattle roaming the street. This impression is--with the exception of a few areas--entirely correct. In a few days, you get used to the dirt and realize that a lot of it results from unpaved roads, a dry climate, and a bit of wind that turns everything dusty. The trash is a problem in many parts of the city because Indian cities lack regular public garbage collection, so you end up with trash piles like the one shown [Note: to be added later]. Periodically, a truck will come by and pick up the garbage and take it somewhere. Other times, people will just burn the garbage because they can't do much else.

Bangalore is not bad everywhere, and you get used to it anyway. The scent of human urine is more prevalent in downtown Seattle than in most of Bangalore. You just move past the smelly things like garbage piles, piss walls, and business men wearing too much cologne.

Piss Walls?
In India, men can pee in public all they like. A lot of times, some walls receive more urine than others. Some corners in the cities have waste-high outdoor stalls by the side of the road where a gentleman may piss and have it go directly into the gutter. A photo from outside the Muslim cemetery near GK:
"

Women do not pee in public if they can help it, though small children squat most anywhere. I can always find an at-least-as-clean-as-a-comparable-North-American bathroom, whether they have Western commodes or porcelains squat toilets (the latter being preferable to hovering). TP? Bring your own or go local (You can Google Indian bathrooms for tips and techniques).