I realized that the fancy department store is probably not nearly as interesting for to read about as the City Market.
The City Market is several blocks' worth of shops and stalls. I didn't see any foreigners there, except for one on the outskirts as I was walking out. Lack of foreigners is nice because it means fewer beggars and scams (though in tourist areas, I have the advantage of offers to have my name written on a grain of rice).
It was good to wander around, but I'm a pretty big marketing target since virtually all foreigners are rich (yes, backpackers, you are rich here, too). I didn't actually buy anything--the household goods were not of the same quality I buy (thin "stainless" steel, etc); the clothes were too small; and for jewelry and saris, I need to shop with a local. Any sari I ask about is "10,000 Rupees, madam." I certainly don't mind paying a bit of a foreigner tax, but it can get pretty ridiculous.
Pictures say a thousand words (and I have to get back to work):
8 years ago